Category: Repairs



This one had issues with the jack. Crappy solder joints and bare shielded output wire. The contacts were cleaned up and heat shrink added to isolate the output wire’s shield. A locking washer was also added so that the jack won’t loosen up so easily.

Same issue as with the Strat. No bare shield output wire though. Locking and flat washers were placed backwards!

I had worked on this one before. The issue being the switch where the plastic bell cap that pushes the contacts had come out getting stuck and making it hard to switch. I had also cleaned up the wiring. Now the issue was the switch again but this time the signal would cut out. I cleaned the contacts and redid the wiring once again but it wouldn’t stop cutting out so I ended up replacing the switch for a new one.

New one in place and old one out. Done!

This beauty is a late 90’s(96’/97′?) MIJ Jazzmaster. The big upgrades were already done in the form of a new set of Novak Pickups and a Mastery bridge! Still a few extra changes and a surprise repair were to be made. It had a 250K volume pot that we replaced for the original value of 1M(but Audio instead of Linear). The original tone cap of .033 had already been replaced with a .047 that we replaced with a Russian PIO .022. The owner complained about the rhythm circuit not being useful at all. It turned out the volume pot was broken and not working as it should. I had a small pot of the right value(but again, audio taper) that fit so we got it fixed. An last but not least, new TUSQ string trees as the string where catching on the old ones(yes, someone installed an extra string tree) causing tuning issues.

Guts!

250K pots and .047 tone cap.

New 1M volume pot and Russian PIO .022 tone cap!

Broken volume pot from the rhythm circuit.

New one!

And the new TUSQ string trees.

Done!

There was no signal coming through this cool amp. The issue turned out to be cracked solder joints at the board where the jacks from the effects loop are mounted.

Before and after:

Old tubes and chassis out.

Dirty pots soaking in naphtha.

After the pots were installed(and lubricated) I found these two components(cap and bridge rectifier) and a wire loose. I read up a little and it seems like a common issue with these amps.

Those joints were cleaned and flowed with new solder. Next I installed a couple of resistors to measure cathode current for biasing.

Done(after setting the bias)! I had a picture of the new tubes glowing but it seems I erased it before uploading it to my computer. D’oh!

Guts:

Turned out there were a few cold/cracked solder joints on the switch board. I flowed new solder and that solved the issue.

Done!

This equalizer came was modified previously and it also came not working. Here’s what was done:

Old power cord to the left, new(recycled) one to the right.

Filter cap change.

Old indicator light:

New one:

Done!(Not really, bottom and top plates are not installed in this pictured)

Old, worn in warmoth neck, heavy ash body, GFS pickups, standard telecaster wiring with coil split switch for the neck pickup.

Upgrades on this one were GFS/DiMarzio pickups, 4-way switch wiring and an elektrosocket.

Dunlop Rotovibe. No power.

This vibe was not powering up. I had already been diagnosed before arrival and the bad component had also been removed so it turned out to be an easy one. All that had to be done was to install a replacement, put it back together and just test it.

Blown component removed(C7, part of power supply protection).

New component in place.

Put back together.

And it’s alive! Tested and done.

So dirty that most of them were really scratchy and the master volumes, sensitivity and preamp volume would cut the signal through most of their rotation.

So, the usual when it comes to cleaning potentiometers:

Let them soak for a while, then take them out, let them dry, apply lubricant and install back on the amp. Done!